It has preserved a degree of authenticity that is hard to find in Asia's supercities. Indonesia's 76 million ethnic Javanese think of the Kraton (the palace of the Sultan of Yogyakarta) as the center of the Universe. The city overflows with arts - with gamelan orchestras and traditional dance, paintings and shadow puppet theater. Historic monuments and sites abound. And some of Asia's biggest and most beautiful temples sit just outside the city...